If you'd asked me what I planned to do with my first weekend in Phnom Penh, I would perhaps have suggested a walk along the river, sleeping in, finding a good coffee.
I might not have mentioned taking part in a public novelty dancing world record attempt.
Yet, that's what I found myself doing this afternoon.
When we arrived, there were already about 500 people gathered, blue caps firmly in place, practicing the steps to the Madison. For those Aussies for whom this is unfamiliar, this is a Bus-Stop-like repeated dance involving step step kick, step step kick, clap, turn 90 degrees and do it all again. Anyone sensing a theme here?
It was being filmed, part of a BBC sponsored TV series aimed at engaging youth in current affairs, via a soap opera and radio show. My new French friend's contact was facilitating and somehow we ended up as official recorders. Thus, as the clouds broke onto a crowd swelling to 1200, we stood, the international neutral observers, one at the end of each row of 32, and watched for the requiring 5 minutes as the mostly Cambodian dancers stepped, clapped and occasionally cheered for the camera.
The guy at the head of my line had obviously been dragged into participate, and shuffled his way vaguely left and right, exactly opposite to the rest of the crowd. Next to him, a young beauty wiggled her way through the steps, resplendent in full denim suit (complete with bows) and fluffy slippers featuring cartoon kittens on each toe. Behind them, an awed three year old stared at the dancers around her, fixed to the spot. The rain set in properly, the music kept going, and the blue caps bobbed along.
Afterward, we had to sign an official declaration. Were we aware of Guinness World Record regulations? Was everyone in our row dancing? (I excluded the child. Sorry but I'm signing my life away here!) And the organiser pointed out the essential recorders - perched on top of tall buildings overlooking the square, the cameramen with the sniper-like setups to take in the whole thing in one sequence.
The rain eased and the leather jacketted hip hop boy band came on. Forget One Direction, Utopia is where it's at.
As long as you speak Khmer.
(Catch the world exclusive from next Sunday at http://www.youtube.com/user/loy9kh)
Saturday, April 28, 2012
Saturday, April 14, 2012
It's all about the light
Sometimes life develops a cinematic quality. The way the sunshine fills the room, the hum of passing traffic, the side comments of fellow passengers.
For me, it's been the entire week.
The presentation, the official nods, the gift of a silk scarf held prominent for the photo.
Rain clouds dripping onto a mustard Melbourne skyline.
Beers in a cozy booth.
Standing at the microphone, my voice resonating into the future. A room full of faces growing less intertwined.
The vacuum cleaner under our feet.
My grandmother waving from her open front door.
The crisp sunshine seeping into my soul.
A chance meeting of a boy from another place and time - the struggle for context as we glance at each other. Then again: different country, different boy.
And my trolley case wheels rumbling down another marble walkway.
Maybe it's being mindful.
Maybe it's being disconnected.
Maybe my lens is coming into focus.
For me, it's been the entire week.
The presentation, the official nods, the gift of a silk scarf held prominent for the photo.
Rain clouds dripping onto a mustard Melbourne skyline.
Beers in a cozy booth.
Standing at the microphone, my voice resonating into the future. A room full of faces growing less intertwined.
The vacuum cleaner under our feet.
My grandmother waving from her open front door.
The crisp sunshine seeping into my soul.
A chance meeting of a boy from another place and time - the struggle for context as we glance at each other. Then again: different country, different boy.
And my trolley case wheels rumbling down another marble walkway.
Maybe it's being mindful.
Maybe it's being disconnected.
Maybe my lens is coming into focus.
Sunday, April 01, 2012
A culinary tour
I've spent the last three weeks traveling around the country. 39 health facilities in 14 working days! Plus a lot of time sitting in the car, and a lot of time eating. The best way to experience a country's cuisine? Go with a local:
Oh. You mean liver. And lung and uterus.
At 8 am.
The liver & lung are fine. The uterus... perhaps at a meal other than breakfast?
Chose not to partake this time.
Other memborable moments include:
Smoked buffalo meat
The live catfish given to us by another health centre, that jumped and dripped, trying to eat through its plastic bag gaol all the way home in the car.
Green papaya salad
The densest dark chocolate mousse I've ever eaten
Baguette sandwiches, done Lao style with sweet chilli sauce & coriander
Early-season specialty rice
Car food (apart from the corn): coconut wafers, oranges and sticky fresh tamarind pods
Korean sukiyaki-style BBQ
Black sticky rice and bean cakes, wrapped in banana leaves
Fried chicken & kebab-style grasshoppers - accidentally ended up chewing on the flattened chicken head
Fresh Lao coffee with condensed milk
Green snake bean salads
Hard boiled duck eggs, complete with embryos - the only other thing I've declined.
And of course:
Yum.
Thursday, March 22, 2012
The Power of Corn
It's been a long hot day. We've just finished at the third health centre - this one doesn't even write down the number of births. On top of the core team of four, we have the provincial immunisation manager and a district representative along for the ride - four of us squished across the back seat as we bump along dusty roads. The driver's collection of cheesy soft rock blares through the speakers as my colleagues sing along: "Cos I am your ladee! And you are my maaaan..."
Abruptly, a whole lot of chatter breaks out and we pull over at a bamboo hut in the middle of a barren rice field. A minute later, I am handed a plastic bag full of sweet corn. Very recently boiled sweet corn.
"Whenever you reeech for mee..."
I try to unpeel my cob. As does the laughing provincial manager. Bump. Boiling water drips all over our legs.
"... gonna do all that I can..."
I get to practice one of my few Lao words as cries of "Hon! Hon!" (Hot! Hot!) erupt around me. The corn is indeed very Hon, and near impossible to hold. We jolt along, sliding from side to side, hot corn squeaking between our teeth. All I can do is giggle.
"We're heading for sumwair... somewhere I've never beeeeen..."
Abruptly, a whole lot of chatter breaks out and we pull over at a bamboo hut in the middle of a barren rice field. A minute later, I am handed a plastic bag full of sweet corn. Very recently boiled sweet corn.
"Whenever you reeech for mee..."
I try to unpeel my cob. As does the laughing provincial manager. Bump. Boiling water drips all over our legs.
"... gonna do all that I can..."
I get to practice one of my few Lao words as cries of "Hon! Hon!" (Hot! Hot!) erupt around me. The corn is indeed very Hon, and near impossible to hold. We jolt along, sliding from side to side, hot corn squeaking between our teeth. All I can do is giggle.
"We're heading for sumwair... somewhere I've never beeeeen..."
Monday, March 12, 2012
In Luang Prabang
Am getting geared up for a whirlwind tour of Laos - spending each of the next 13 nights in a different town! Our pilot day went well, we've tweaked the questions and most importantly, I got my two traditional skirts back from the tailor in time to meet with the provincial health director tomorrow.
An afternoon wandering the old Royal palace and striving up the hill to a stupa was a lovely way to start- there'll be a fair bit of car time ahead!
An afternoon wandering the old Royal palace and striving up the hill to a stupa was a lovely way to start- there'll be a fair bit of car time ahead!
Tuesday, March 06, 2012
Crisis!
There's a nationwide shortage of tonic water.
None in the country. For the last four months.
Just what is an expat to do?
None in the country. For the last four months.
Just what is an expat to do?
Sunday, March 04, 2012
Monday, February 27, 2012
Only in the Philippines
...would the inflight entertainment on a major national airline consist of calling for volunteers to sing unaccompanied Karaoke into the intercom.
...would people get up & do it.
...would you see guys walking in between stopped traffic to sell, not garlands of flowers, gum or cigarettes, but a whole tray of bonsai trees.
...would people get up & do it.
...would you see guys walking in between stopped traffic to sell, not garlands of flowers, gum or cigarettes, but a whole tray of bonsai trees.
Thursday, February 23, 2012
The walk to work
Leave the apartment, check the lock. Nearly called a locksmith last week.
Down 16 floors. Say “Good morning!” to the security guard as
he opens the door. Sling the backpack diagonally across my front and out into
the heat.
Left is the laundry service, four money changers, the most
famous bar in Manila, and Kink Cakes, which sells exactly what you think it
does.
Right is the way to the office.
Along the side of the shopping mall, closed at this hour. Stay
to the right of the footpath, anything else confuses everybody.
Past the crowd outside the recruitment agency, spruiking
dreams and jobs in the Middle East.
Down the 50cm step from footpath to road, helpfully matched
with a wheelchair symbol on the other side.
Past the fallen tree, the Philippine Airlines training
centre, the pedocab drivers asleep in their cabins while early 90s pop blasts from their speakers.
Right, and cross the road with care, between gaps in the
jeepneys and motorbikes. Past the construction site proudly proclaiming, “182
days without recordable loss of work incident!” - as it has read for the last
two weeks. Contemplate the use of the word, “recordable.”
Left again, past veggie stalls, cigarette stands, disabled
beggars and the Supreme Court.
Right onto United Nations Avenue. We are the only UN agency
in the street. Fight through the largest crowd, outside a “clearance centre.” This
could be interpreted as referring to its demolition site appearance, but it is
where all jobseekers must apply for a security check. The five-year-old kids do
a brisk trade in Black Ballpens here.
And here we are, another smiling security guard, through the
metal detector and into the compound: green lawns, regional flags, the walkway
flanked by a koi pool with resident tortoises.
On the way home, more than half the trip is through the
mall.
Thursday, February 16, 2012
Hepatitis B - so what?
Hep B isn't the most obvious disease to choose. In Australia, we tend to think of it as a blood infection to avoid, but (even in the medical world) aren't really that aware of the consequences. The idea of a "carrier" implies that that person is pretty healthy, really, but not that they are themselves at risk.
In Laos, 80% of women give birth without a skilled attendant. Less than 30% have any antenatal or postnatal care. About one in ten children die before their fifth birthday, although this number is falling. And the total government spending on health care is about US$1.90 per person. Per year.
Laos isn't going to meet the regional hepatitis B control milestone. It's not hard to see why. But in some ways, an international push for one priority can focus attention on others.
If you're interested in reading more, this is the place to do it. For the public health inclined, the paper by Rani has an interesting discussion on the motivations behind setting regional goals.
- One in four people chronically infected with hepatitis B will die of liver failure or liver cancer
- Approximately 278,000 people in our region die from the consequences of hep B per year
- Babies whose mothers are infected have a 90% chance of contracting hep B
- A vaccine dose at birth is the best way to prevent lifelong infection
- Almost half of the people in the world with chronic hep B infection live in the Western Pacific region (which Australia is in).
In Laos, 80% of women give birth without a skilled attendant. Less than 30% have any antenatal or postnatal care. About one in ten children die before their fifth birthday, although this number is falling. And the total government spending on health care is about US$1.90 per person. Per year.
Laos isn't going to meet the regional hepatitis B control milestone. It's not hard to see why. But in some ways, an international push for one priority can focus attention on others.
If you're interested in reading more, this is the place to do it. For the public health inclined, the paper by Rani has an interesting discussion on the motivations behind setting regional goals.
Wednesday, February 08, 2012
The settling in process
So, I've done this a few times before. Arrived in a new place, rushed around to get myself organised, put the pressure on in order to sort my life out as soon as possible, which will then allow me to relax.
I bought a house on the first day of work once.
Don't worry, I haven't done that.
All this is my way of preparing myself to settle a bit... but it requires a fair amount of energy in the meantime. Combined with the mandatory new-country-new-workplace-culture-shock First Thursday Meltdown, it's often not pretty.
So far, it's been smooth. My victories thus far are:
1. Getting on the plane at all. Some of you know why.
2. Knitting a fish.
3. Obtaining a phone number.
4. Realising the day before work that my normally fairly accurate sense of direction was flipped, and therefore I what I thought was North (the way to the office) was in fact South.
5. Finding an ATM that will recognise my card. See this for why this is an issue.
6. Obtaining an apartment. On a three week lease.
7. Realising before muesli-planning purchase that those are not shreds of coconut. They are squid flakes.
8. Toasting rolled oats in a wok.
9. Eating both lunch and dinner with different new people two days running.
10. Obtaining an ID badge with purty blue official logo button. Not needing it because the security guard already recognises me.
10. Swimming 20 laps. OK, so it's the "condo" pool and it's only about 15m long. But I still swam.
11. Getting internet. I can now talk to you all.
So for now, this is home sweet home.
And tomorrow is Thursday.
I bought a house on the first day of work once.
Don't worry, I haven't done that.
All this is my way of preparing myself to settle a bit... but it requires a fair amount of energy in the meantime. Combined with the mandatory new-country-new-workplace-culture-shock First Thursday Meltdown, it's often not pretty.
So far, it's been smooth. My victories thus far are:
1. Getting on the plane at all. Some of you know why.
2. Knitting a fish.
3. Obtaining a phone number.
4. Realising the day before work that my normally fairly accurate sense of direction was flipped, and therefore I what I thought was North (the way to the office) was in fact South.
5. Finding an ATM that will recognise my card. See this for why this is an issue.
6. Obtaining an apartment. On a three week lease.
7. Realising before muesli-planning purchase that those are not shreds of coconut. They are squid flakes.
8. Toasting rolled oats in a wok.
9. Eating both lunch and dinner with different new people two days running.
10. Obtaining an ID badge with purty blue official logo button. Not needing it because the security guard already recognises me.
10. Swimming 20 laps. OK, so it's the "condo" pool and it's only about 15m long. But I still swam.
11. Getting internet. I can now talk to you all.
So for now, this is home sweet home.
And tomorrow is Thursday.
Thursday, February 02, 2012
FAQ
So... where are you going?
Lots of places. Manila based, with a month in Laos and two months in Cambodia. Rough itinerary is:
Feb 4 - 28: Manila (this is in the Philippines, for those who may need reminding)
March: Vientiane, Laos
April: back to Manila with quick dash home
Late April - mid June: Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Late June: Manila
End of June: Home.
What are you going to be doing?
Doing an Internship placement with the Western Pacific Regional office of the World Health Organization (and trying to remember to spell that with a "z".) Focusing on Hepatitis B control via vaccination, specifically looking at promoting uptake of the vaccine dose given at birth. This is when children are most likely to get Hep B & keep the infection for life, so the best window to intervene with immunisation.
Where are you staying?
I have a hostel until Wednesday & will figure the rest out when I get there.
They're putting you up, right?
No, the internship is not a job as such, but a work placement, hence I need to sort out arrangements myself. I'm hoping to count it as a subject for my long-running Masters study.
Will you have internet?
Yes. I will based in big cities, not in the jungle like before. Manila has 12 million people - I'm pretty sure they have phones. I might even have one myself.
But seriously, I expect to get a local sim card so not sure about being textable on my current number, but will be here, on email, fb and skype.
Have you had all your shots?
One of the benefits of leaving the country so often is that I've actually had them all already... and don't need any boosters or anything!
What are you doing after you come back?
Drinking cocktails and knitting.
Lots of places. Manila based, with a month in Laos and two months in Cambodia. Rough itinerary is:
Feb 4 - 28: Manila (this is in the Philippines, for those who may need reminding)
March: Vientiane, Laos
April: back to Manila with quick dash home
Late April - mid June: Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Late June: Manila
End of June: Home.
What are you going to be doing?
Doing an Internship placement with the Western Pacific Regional office of the World Health Organization (and trying to remember to spell that with a "z".) Focusing on Hepatitis B control via vaccination, specifically looking at promoting uptake of the vaccine dose given at birth. This is when children are most likely to get Hep B & keep the infection for life, so the best window to intervene with immunisation.
Where are you staying?
I have a hostel until Wednesday & will figure the rest out when I get there.
They're putting you up, right?
No, the internship is not a job as such, but a work placement, hence I need to sort out arrangements myself. I'm hoping to count it as a subject for my long-running Masters study.
Will you have internet?
Yes. I will based in big cities, not in the jungle like before. Manila has 12 million people - I'm pretty sure they have phones. I might even have one myself.
But seriously, I expect to get a local sim card so not sure about being textable on my current number, but will be here, on email, fb and skype.
Have you had all your shots?
One of the benefits of leaving the country so often is that I've actually had them all already... and don't need any boosters or anything!
What are you doing after you come back?
Drinking cocktails and knitting.
Off again...
Hello all who may occasionally drop in (all three of you) and welcome to everyone else! Once again I am jetting off for a few months of my life, thus resurrecting this blog seems the way to go. Please feel free to contact me by other means, but this way I'll not be cluttering up inboxes!
Monday, December 27, 2010
Early musings for 2011
It's not New Year yet. But I've got the time to reflect now.
What can I change?
What should I aim for?
Once again, the idea of monthly goals appeals.
For January:
Buy nothing new.
Not an original goal, but not one I've tried before.
Why?
To remind myself of the world beyond the material. Of the limited resources we share. Of my blessings in having access to so much of them.
Plus, I'm moving interstate. I need to downsize somewhat (in a month?! Yeah, right.) And I have spent the last few years railing against clutter with only mild success. Here's another way to tackle it.
What?
Well - roughly along the lines of the Compact. Food & drink is ok - but buying consciously, aware of what I already have in the pantry. Cleaning products - but only if I've truly run out or don't already own an alternative (three different types of shampoo, anyone?) Second hand is ok if I really need something. My exceptions will be: 1. Repairs - my shower screen needs fixing, and 2. Experiences are ok. I believe that spending money on experiences add depth to life in ways that Stuff does not.
Why only a month?
Because I'm afraid of commitment. And I believe in baby steps.
What can I change?
What should I aim for?
Once again, the idea of monthly goals appeals.
For January:
Buy nothing new.
Not an original goal, but not one I've tried before.
Why?
To remind myself of the world beyond the material. Of the limited resources we share. Of my blessings in having access to so much of them.
Plus, I'm moving interstate. I need to downsize somewhat (in a month?! Yeah, right.) And I have spent the last few years railing against clutter with only mild success. Here's another way to tackle it.
What?
Well - roughly along the lines of the Compact. Food & drink is ok - but buying consciously, aware of what I already have in the pantry. Cleaning products - but only if I've truly run out or don't already own an alternative (three different types of shampoo, anyone?) Second hand is ok if I really need something. My exceptions will be: 1. Repairs - my shower screen needs fixing, and 2. Experiences are ok. I believe that spending money on experiences add depth to life in ways that Stuff does not.
Why only a month?
Because I'm afraid of commitment. And I believe in baby steps.
Monday, August 23, 2010
Circle of security
Bigger.
Stronger.
Wiser.
Kind.
The freedom to leave to explore.
The safety to came back.
Simple, no?
Stronger.
Wiser.
Kind.
The freedom to leave to explore.
The safety to came back.
Simple, no?
Friday, August 13, 2010
Tuesday, August 10, 2010
New job, new pace
New place
New patients
New problems
Just started in the community clinic. So far the timetable seems to be child psych, autism, learning problems, ADHD, child safety issues. With the odd trip to the outback for good measure.
So i'm gearing up for the next learning curve... from managing up to 20 people to managing just one.
Me.
New patients
New problems
Just started in the community clinic. So far the timetable seems to be child psych, autism, learning problems, ADHD, child safety issues. With the odd trip to the outback for good measure.
So i'm gearing up for the next learning curve... from managing up to 20 people to managing just one.
Me.
Monday, August 02, 2010
Flying visits
Well, am thankful to be back in the ville. In once piece (mostly).
Wedding the first: Hobart. Footless tights & long gown - perfect. 3 days with cousin - awesome. Dancing with aunt - very cool. All in all, a success.
Travel: airport singapore noodles is the best cure for a cold.
Friday: bell ringing skills thoroughly honed.
Wedding the second: made it to the church on time. Afternoon chilling. Evening dancing. Vodka shots. The sunday was somewhat less than dignified.
And yes Mum, I did make it to work today.
Wedding the first: Hobart. Footless tights & long gown - perfect. 3 days with cousin - awesome. Dancing with aunt - very cool. All in all, a success.
Travel: airport singapore noodles is the best cure for a cold.
Friday: bell ringing skills thoroughly honed.
Wedding the second: made it to the church on time. Afternoon chilling. Evening dancing. Vodka shots. The sunday was somewhat less than dignified.
And yes Mum, I did make it to work today.
Sunday, July 18, 2010
Revolution
So, the last couple of years have been a time of new things.
Ultimate frisbee
Deep dives
Managing people
Hiking & liking it
Building a veggie garden
Flying to work
Cyclones
Today I'm sore from a few hours of hula. With my own hoop, to my own rhythm, with a bunch of fun people. In public, no less!
Never would I have dreamed that I'd have the co-ordination, let alone the willingness, stamina and ability, to cruise around hooping for a couple of hours. And to do it whilst soaking up the sea breeze, watching the yachts and reveling in the sunshine of a Sunday afternoon is brilliant.
Townsville rocks!
Ultimate frisbee
Deep dives
Managing people
Hiking & liking it
Building a veggie garden
Flying to work
Cyclones
Today I'm sore from a few hours of hula. With my own hoop, to my own rhythm, with a bunch of fun people. In public, no less!
Never would I have dreamed that I'd have the co-ordination, let alone the willingness, stamina and ability, to cruise around hooping for a couple of hours. And to do it whilst soaking up the sea breeze, watching the yachts and reveling in the sunshine of a Sunday afternoon is brilliant.
Townsville rocks!
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